OLD KUCHING, CARPENTER STREET PART 1: LAO YEA KENG

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I
admit it. I am guilty. I am guilty of enjoying the act of running against the current of the mainstream when it comes to food, but as much as I try, I can’t run away from Carpenter Street. As a born and bred Kuching-ite, it is no secret that this is as mainstream as it gets. You can tell from the double parked cars along the no parking yellow line that people love coming here. I love coming here. Why though? If you haven’t guessed already, it has to do with the food.

The fascination with the food here is as old as the buildings that house them. As you can figure, these places are old. Really old. Most of the buildings you see here have withstood the test of time since the late 1800’s and it really is a treat to be able to have a peek into our past, even while all around us the world is changing and growing. If you can’t tell by now, I’m a sucker for the charm of Old Kuching.

So here we are today in Carpenter Street. Rarely are there these many eateries in Kuching as famous as the ones here that can be found within a single street spanning 350 metres. You must be wondering how on earth can this guy fit all those eateries in one post. I won’t be. I’ll be taking this journey with along with you from the beginning of this Street to each notable eatery to the last eatery. Trust me! It’ll be fun. So here we go, PART 1. We visit the famous, Lao Yea Keng.

Apart from the much loved Kueh Chap, Laksa or Kolo Mee, we will be looking at what this famous opera house to me is known for. Yes, you might be wondering why I spelled it that way, but let's just say that everyone has their own way of translating what they've heard from Chinese to English. That, and the fact that the Borneo Post spelled it that way too. Click here for proof.


But before I enter the Lao Yea Keng, I’ll grab myself some banana fritters. This specific stall serves different kinds of fried stuff during tea time, but what I’ll be here for is the banana fritters. This isn’t the kind that you will see in most coffee shops currently that actually use bananas and is topped with cheddar and drizzled with condensed/evaporated milk.


These fritters are made from a different kind of banana called the plantain and are just roughly sliced plantains coated in a light batter. In this case, simple is simply delicious. The lady who makes them knows what I’m talking about as she’s been in the business for about 40 something years while her mother and grandmother have been doing it for around 40 and 50 years respectively. These guys know what they’re doing.



Once I’m done I’ll head inside and if I’m lucky to find a seat during this hour, I’ll be ordering from this shop right here. Unfortunately, I can’t read any form of Chinese so I won’t be able to tell if their name is written on their sign. Someone in the comments section, help me out?

While waiting for my order, let’s have a bite of some Banana Fritters.




From the frying, you’ll notice that the heat has caused the banana to ooze out of the light batter. When eaten fresh, the light crispiness of the batter coupled with the oozed caramelized banana, brings a crispy kind of sweetness to the already sweet soft gooey banana within.



Normal bananas when fried this way for fritters sometimes become too soft and a lot sweeter than they already are when cooked. Plantains when cooked this way maintain its firmness and becomes just the right amount of sweet. Please note that this opinion is coming from someone who doesn't enjoy the sweeter side of food.




















For one of the lighter things to eat here, the Fish-Ball Tauhu Soup is a particular favourite. The Tang Hoon glass noodles are made beautifully as they’re just the right amount of springy and possess a very light bite to them. The light pork broth that they’re swimming in, though having noticeable MSG flavour when tasting is perfect to complement the theme of the noodles.




The fish/meat balls are delightfully springy too upon biting, while the Tauhu that hugs the pork is also very soft and light but if I have to be honest, the pork in the Tauhu doesn't really taste like anything. The common theme with these noodles is how light it is, and it makes sense as this is typically a tea time kind of meal. You wouldn't want to have something heavy so soon after eating lunch and so soon before dinner.





What I come here for, and what most people I believe flock here for are the Pork Satays, which are slices of meat skewered on a thin stick and barbequed. The Satay usually takes a while depending on the size of crowd but they’re worth the wait.



The sweet and savoury flavours of the meat from the Satay are achieved by being beautifully marinated just enough to infuse flavour without taking away any of the natural flavours of pork. You’ll notice how well they’re cooked from how juicy they are and from the way you see the juices dripping onto the plate.





This Satay is good enough to eat without the classic peanut sauce, but you’ll be missing out as the Peanut Satay Sauce is delicious. You’ll notice the consistency of the sauce is thick enough for you to scoop it up and stick to the Satay, while also not being as thick as Peanut Butter. The sauce just sings of savoury peanut flavours while having sweetness to balance it.



What you’ll notice from eateries like these, like most of the places we will soon visit is the connection the people have to good food. You’ll notice grandfathers that would come here as children, bringing their own children and grandchildren of their own to enjoy the food of their youth. You’ll notice how good food brings people to good relationships and long lasting bonds.

These shops reviewed are open from 1pm to 4pm daily or till everything is sold out. They are open every day except on Fridays and Mondays.






Wow, you're still here? Well thank you! Here's a sneak peek at next week's post while you're still here :)


RICE WILL SUFFICE: MY VILLAGE BAROK, NASI PENYET

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T
here may be many words that come to mind when one thinks of the First White Rajah, James Brooke, but there's only one word that prevails in mine. Adventure. It must have been interesting to have first laid eyes on Kuching as he travelled through the Sarawak River on a schooner he splurged most if not all of his inheritance money on. 

The Royalist
As the culture shock sank in from seeing jungle life and wooden houses all around him, I wonder if our adventurer imagined the Kuching he saw that day so many years ago, could ever be the thriving modern city it is today.



Some things though, never change. We’re very lucky that for the time being regardless of modernity, we still have places like “My Village Barok” that reflects the culture of old that is still alive in Kuching today. It is also the place where I’ve been tipped off that serves rather delicious Nasi Ayam Penyet.



To get here, you’ll need to make your way to Kampung Boyan either by car or by sampan. But if I did not make the theme of this article clear, it is adventure. Take the sampan. You won’t regret it. I will not be responsible, mind you if something happens to you on that sampan. Unless of course you have fun. I'll take responsibility for that.


You’ll need to take a sampan from the pier closest to the 7-11 in the Kuching Waterfront. There, you’ll pay 50 cents to cross the river. Rides are RM1 instead of 50 cents if you’re travelling past 7pm. Once you’re across, go behind the visible food court on your right, and this restaurant will be on your left.

Chair = 1. Me = 0.
Once there, find yourself a seat and enjoy the artwork and atmosphere while waiting for your order to be taken. Today though as I mentioned, Nasi Ayam Penyet is what we’re looking for. If you have time, also try the Kambing (Lamb) variation. You’ll notice in the menu that there isn't such a thing as Nasi Ayam Penyet as it’s called Nasi Ayam Kemek here. Trust me, it's the same thing. 



RM 9
At first glance, you’ll notice that this isn’t your conventional plate of Nasi Ayam Penyet. Gone is the fried chicken, and in its place is one that’s grilled over a barbeque. Although this means that the usual crunchy texture you get from the chicken you’re used to is missing, it is not a huge problem as the chicken is packed filled with flavour.



The chicken is coated with a sweet and salty sauce that receives a beautiful caramelization when barbequed. The meat is tender from the “Penyet-ing” it receives while also allowing for better absorption of the marinade that leads to a juicy and delicious chicken.

RM 15


The same can be said of the lamb, which comes in generous portion and tender goodness. It retains that same marinade that brings caramelization, while being cooked well to achieve juiciness instead of being as thin and hard as a hockey puck. This is anything but a hockey puck.
That tenderness though



In most cases, what usually makes or breaks a good plate of Nasi Ayam Penyet is the sambal. This isn't the case here as the protein too is capable of carrying the dish. This does not mean though, that the sambal is a push-over in any way.



The sambal is mildly sweet and savoury but understandably not as tasty as most, due the nature of the already flavourful protein. What it is missing though, is the usual sourness from the sambal paste and lime that’s usually present in sambals of this nature to lift the dish.

Regardless of the missing balance, it packs an upper cut of spiciness. The heat is no joke and if you’re not someone who can take the heat, you’ll need to request for them to separate the sambal from the protein. Why? Because they'll pour a generous spread for you on your protein along with another side helping of the sauce. For those who enjoy heat though, this will be a treat and changes need not be made.



Among other things, what you have on the side is the much ignored ulam of cabbage and ulam raja or "the King's Salad". Though only mildly fragrant, having all these elements come together as you munch on your protein and rice will bring an earthy herby flavour from the ulam raja, and crunch from the cabbage. 

What does it mean? Everything combined equals deliciousness.

Needless to say though different from the typical Nasi Ayam Penyet, I'd come back here to eat this in a heartbeat. 

Once all is said and done, my final advice for you is this. Eat. With. Your. Hands. 

This also goes without saying, please wash your hands before and after your meal.


My Village Barok can be found in the Google Map Location below and is open everyday from 5pm to 12 midnight.



As usual, if you've stayed this long.. Here's some behind the scene stuff from this trip! :)






SUBWAY, EAT YOUR HEART OUT: WRAP & GO SANDWICHES

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I
won’t lie to you. It is not easy to get a good sandwich in Kuching. No, I’m not referring to Kuching-ites staple “roti kiap”, a simple butter or kaya toasted sandwich enjoyed usually with their morning cuppa. I’m talking about fresh and meaty sandwiches. For as long as I can remember, the closest thing Kuching has to that are toasted sandwiches with luncheon meat pretending to be some sort of ham and an egg smothered with ketchup and mayo. This is NOT the case with Wrap & Go.


Normally, the idea of good non-Asian food found in coffee shops would be preposterous. Not to Kuching-ites though. We know better than that.


Speaking of coffee shops, their iced coffee (RM1.80) is a really good pairing with whatever it is you’re in store for in W&G. First of all, the owners are extremely friendly. If you ever have the pleasure to speak to the chef’s mother who helps collects orders, you’ll notice that she is one of the friendliest ladies you’ll ever meet. If you’re wondering which one she is, don’t worry. You’ll know it when you see her.


Feel free to ask them about what is in their sandwiches and what flavours you’re expecting to experience. They aren’t afraid to divulge what it is they’re serving you. This eagerness to share is something I’ve noticed from eateries who have pride in what they produce, barring of course secret sauces. 


We’ll start off with their pancakes which are reasonably priced, unlike a certain overpriced cafĂ© we’ve read of previously in Urban Palate *cough*. These pancakes are thin and topped with compound butter, syrup and Roselle jam on the side which are utterly delicious. The pancakes made are on a personal level too thin though, as the thinness when cooked feels a little too greasy for my taste from possibly being cooked with butter. I’m a fan of denser and thicker pancakes which provide more of a bite while being thick enough to counter that greasiness.


The pancakes on its own are still nice but this of course is on a personal note, as I can see the appeal for thin pancakes which are lighter and greasier. The pancakes mentioned earlier are topped with compound butter, which is butter blended with orange and herbs that provide a bright fresh citrus flavour to cut through the heaviness of butter. The syrup that tops is it mildly sweet while the Roselle Jam on the side is so pretty! Forgive my fawning, but Roselle is always great as a jam as its strong colour is so naturally reddish pink that one would be forgiven to think food colouring is used. The home-made jam is delicious with a mild sourness and light balanced sweetness.


The sandwiches which are the next thing we’re trying, are a whole different ball game altogether.

Before we get started, what do you think is the secret to a good sandwich?

Some will say that it comes down to the bread, meat, sauce or even vegetables. You wouldn't be wrong if you said either one is vital, but you can’t say that just one of those ingredients has the ability to carry the whole sandwich. A good sandwich is a fine balanced symphony and one ingredient out of tune turns the entire work of art to noise on a plate. You’ll want to choose the best ingredients possible, but also want them to work well together.  



First of all, I have to say this about all of the sandwiches I’ve tried here. The bread is good. Really good. I’m mentioning this now to prevent repetition because you wouldn’t want me going through every sandwich, talking about how the bread is dense enough to hold the whole sandwich together without falling apart. Or how light it still manages to be while being toasted nicely with butter. Everything is good with butter. A good friend once told me that good bread still manages to form back into shape even after pressing it. Just look at that gif.


Go-Vege


Among the few we’ll try, I’ll start off with the Go-Vege sandwich. Modern day carnivores don’t hiss at me! If you’re worried that your sandwich will be bland and bitter from vegetables, you’d be wrong. Very wrong. 

The combination of lettuce with tomato relish brings freshness to counter the slight richness of their cucumber-mayo sauce. The sweet buttery caramelised onions also compliment the colourful beetslaw. The beetslaw’s savoury flavours of sweet, sour and salty do a good job as an alternative for meat while bringing freshness to each bite.

Go-Aries


Their Go-Aries, a lamb sandwich will be a little different from what you may be used to with meat sandwiches. This sandwich which is sweeter than most, plays on the classic pairing of sweetness with lamb. Though that sweetness is traditionally paired with wine, this Roselle jam we talked about earlier brings a delectable hit of sweetness, while balance comes in the form of sourness that pineapple brings to complement the savoury lamb. The lamb slices I will add, are seasoned well and are as juicy as they look.

Go-Sambal

The Go-Sambal whose main flavours come from the chicken and sambal, is a Malaysian take on the classic chicken sandwich. The chicken breast that comes in slices is so juicy that you’ll be left thinking you’re eating a chicken thigh, while the sambal has a good savoury and sweet flavour to it while bringing mild heat from sambal that we all know and love. It’s paired with sweet tomato relish and the usual accompaniment of Vegetables to bring balance to this rich sandwich.

Go-Beefy


As a friend of mine called this next sandwich the Go-Beefy, a fresh sandwich version of a Big Mac, I have to say in some ways I’ll agree with him. Before you leave and forsake this blog forever, let me explain. 



What a Big Mac lacks, from its cardboard tasting beef patty is beefy flavour. This beef bacon brings out all that flavour of beef in one punch. While it may sound like an oxymoron to say that the gherkins (small pickled cucumbers) taste fresher than most, I’m trying to say that these gherkins have that sour flavour without feeling stale and old. This sourness adds a dimension of flavour to the sweetness that comes from the meatless bolognaise sauce and the buttery caramelised onions. What you're getting, is what sandwiches (burgers, if you want to be pedantic) like the Big Mac aspires to be. Beefy, sweet, savoury, fresh and balanced.

A common term present in each of these items I've reviewed, is balance. It's a combination of good ingredients together in balance to bring an orchestration of flavours. The ingredients present are a culmination of individual care to create what it is intended to produce. A symphony of simple flavours that creates deliciousness disguised in a humble sandwich. 

If you're wondering, my answer is no. They do not smother their sandwiches in ketchup or chilli sauce. You may now proceed to sing for joy. 

Wrap & Go is for the time being only open during Monday-Saturday from 7am - 3pm. Their prices and menu are present below the map. 





As a little treat for those who stayed on reading till the end, here are some extra behind the scenes photos.








**In case you’re wondering what kind of sandwich my resident photographer extraordinaire Julian is eating, it’s a recently discontinued sandwich. You may ask the chef if he’s willing to bring it back. The Lord knows I want it back!