Archive for January 2015

OLD KUCHING PART 1: KHAI JOO LANE MEE JAWA

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There’s something about the way old and new blend together in the town of Kuching in a manner that isn’t seen very often. Within the past few years, we Kuching-ites have experienced a boom of new shops and malls and along with it, ways to entertain ourselves, keep us occupied and connected to the world we know today. With old ways quickly phasing out, it’s nice to know that certain things remain.


Within the busy streets of the Kuching market area which holds the new Plaza Merdeka Shopping Mall and the famous Open Air Market, is a street called Khai Joo Lane that is often overlooked. You’ll find this alleyway between the Bank Simpanan and Central Police Station or in the midway point of India Street and that’s where we’ll be going today on our Urban Palate Foodventure.

There’s something magical about traversing through parts old Kuching like Khai Joo Lane while you’re treading on those old tiled streets and faded walls that have stood since Charles Brooke himself would make his way through those streets and find himself some coffee. It only makes it fitting that the first shop you’ll see upon entering the street from the main road is a quaint shop selling only Mee Jawa and Satay called La Tanza Cafe. Why are we going there you may ask? My answer is, Adventure.

If you’re looking at the menu inside, I still stand by what I said about only selling Mee Jawa and Satay. The menu is a remnant of the old tenant who used to operate here, but for whatever reason you’ll still see it on these walls. Also, refrain from asking the owner about whether you can order some Indonesian Bakso because he’ll tell you that he doesn’t serve Indonesian food here. I found this quite strange as the noodles he was serving, was Mee Jawa. Mee Jawa is indicative of its heritage from Indonesia, but I just let this one cheekily slide. Besides, if he’s been making Mee Jawa for 40 years, he deserves some leeway at least.

Here’s a fun fact if you’re in Indonesia. Do not confuse Mee Jawa with Bakmi Jawa. They’re not the same thing. Trust me. Mee Jawa as we know it here, is known as Mi Rebus there.


If you finally are able to get yourself a seat and order a plate of Mee Jawa with Satay, you’ll notice how almost everyone knows each other here. From the way the owner greets the customers and how the customers are made up of either old friends catching up or families coming in for a good breakfast, you will notice what’s different here from new shops nowadays. A soul. A connection to food we eat.


Upon having your plate arrive at your table, you’ll realise with your eyes as to why these guys keep coming back. I'd guess it from how sexy the way those noodles resting on your plate are swimming in that gold gravy that’s topped with fresh garnish while accompanied with a soft boiled egg and hot juicy satay with peanut kuah.  

If you’re used to the punch of sweetness that you usually get when you’re eating Mee Jawa, you will not get this here as flavours are balanced with just the right amount of sweet and savoury while the garnish sprinkled over it provides freshness to the palate. That’s a good thing by the way, if you’ve not noticed.

It is a welcome addition that there is a beautiful jelly-like egg yolk, which is perfect for gravy like this as it doesn’t get lost in your gravy. What you want mixing in with your gravy though, is that savoury nutty peanut kuah which if you can’t see, is accompanied by that juicy Satay which I may add is absolutely essential and also better than most places who dedicate their businesses to just making Satay.

What you get here, is not just a really good balanced plate of Mee Jawa. What you’re getting here is what makes going out to eat so enjoyable. A chance to be a part of our past and our present.

La Tanza Café is opened for Mee Jawa and Satay every day except Sundays from 7am to 11am or till they sell out. A bowl of Mee Jawa is RM3.50 and Satay is priced separately and averages RM2.70. Your total bill will be RM6.20. Don't remind me how weird it is. 




One must also note that this is only the first of the reviews that I am going to do on this street. Up next.. Here’s a little sneak peek into next week’s post. There's a new post every Monday from around 8pm - 9pm.





WHERE HAVE YOU BEAN? RUSTY BEAN & BATTER

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One of the better signs in Kuching. Taken from their Facebook Cover.

I adjust my expectations accordingly whilst always doing my best to give the benefit of the doubt to situations that call for it. Hipster cafés being one of them. With many sprouting like mushrooms and good ones being hard one to find among the bunch, it does no one any good to come in with a negative approach.

Rusty Bean & Batter is one of those hipster cafés that desires you to believe in how good it is. In fact, it tries very hard to inform you of how good it is from its vintage décor to the custom tumblers with their logos on them. The pleasant atmosphere is enhanced with the warm light bulbs that are scattered throughout the ceiling by use of vintage looking pipes.




Hipster cafés can be pricey, and this place is no exception. It is in fact pricier than most if you are in it to try their specialty items or their food menu.

I love coffee, so give me a long black or cappuccino on those cold rainy Kuching nights and I’m in a happy mood for the whole day but seeing as I was here and the item known as the Rusty Fairy ate up 1/6 of the menu board, why not give it a try? As they say, when in Rome.. Do as the Romans do.


If you haven’t been on Facebook or Instagram to see the flood of pictures circulating the interwebs on it and if what you are imagining is based on that illustration on the board, do not be fooled. The cotton candy is big. Really big. And the cup of steamed milk is big as well while the amount of espresso is tiny. Really tiny. 
  
That's a latte a friend ordered next to the "Rusty Fairy". She refused to comment on taste.

As I drank from the cup after I followed instruction to put the cotton candy into the steamed milk, then the cup of espresso after, I was not surprised when the first flavour that came to me was how sweet it was. Apart from that and the warm body of milk, the taste of coffee I was looking for was left wanting. It neither mattered what roast the beans were, nor how good the extraction was when it was busy being drowned in all that sugar and milk.

It must be noted that it was a busy day and the staff were too busy to tend to the confused look on my face as to how much cotton candy is to be put into this drink. From blogs I later learned that you’re supposed to twirl it all while condensing it to be small enough to put into your cup. This is insanity as I only took 1/10 of  that amount which was more than enough.

What I tried next was one chosen because of its complexity in its simplicity. The Eggs Benedict. Poached eggs drizzled with a generous serving of creamy Hollandaise sauce, sitting on a bed of grilled ham and a toasted buttery English muffin. Simple enough right? You’d be surprised. A lot can go wrong with making the sauce and poaching an egg.

I did fear though when the cashier mentioned to me that the one who prepared it was only trained by the owner who himself wasn't a chef, but worked in an Australian restaurant. 


The Eggs Benedict took a while to arrive on my table but still managed to be lukewarm. The Hollandaise, which is supposed to be creamy and bright from the zest that lemon brings was both runny and had a very flat flavour. 


The eggs were poached nicely I have to admit which is quite a feat, but didn’t come to my plate warm and wasn’t seasoned enough barring the generous amount of pepper. 


The ham that it was resting on was not grilled and crisp while the English muffin, wasn’t an English muffin but a thick slice from a French Baguette. If I were to go even further, what was the use of the flat and wilted few leaves of "salad" and one slice of a sad and dull looking tomato?

I’m not trying to knock the fact that you’re not using all the essential ingredients, but for RM16.90 for a plate I should be getting what I paid for.

Don’t get me wrong. This absolutely is a nice place to sit and chat with your friends while enjoying the ambience accompanied with comfortable seats, beanbags or sofas while listening to Indie music, but it can be lacking in the food and beverage department in terms of what I’ve had. I’m not saying that you can’t enjoy their food and drinks, but if sweet drinks and marketing gimmicks are what you’re into, this is for you and you are free to part with your hard earned money as you please.




OODLES OF CHICKEN MUSHROOM NOODLES

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Kolo Mee. If Kuching had a mascot in the form of food, this would be the dish that represents this city best – barring laksa of course, but that’s a story for another day. If you’re in the mood for a bowl but sick of the safe and boring, keep reading. 


How often does one go to a coffee shop and NOT see a Kolo Mee stall? Rarely. How often does one find authentic Kolo Mee? Rarely. If one’s idea of “Authentic” Kolo Mee is the common ensemble of dry noodles drizzled with meaty lard, sweet red pork sauce and sprinkled with spring onions, fried garlic, an unhealthy(but necessary) amount of MSG and Charsiew (Barbequed pork), I’d be inclined to tell you that you are mistaken.
 
So what then is Authentic Kolo Mee? Does it matter? Kolo Mee, has reinvented itself and come a long way from its roots of a bowl of just dry noodles, some vege and minced meat. Its evolution and transformation from what was deemed original and authentic brings meaning to the phrase, “Good chefs follow and great chefs reinvent”.


Why yes, in case you're wondering.. They do serve food at this corner
Ergo, we now look to the famous Kolo Mee stall in front of Chong Lin Plaza, Green road for our next Urban Palatable Adventure. If you can imagine it, now walk behind that stall to find a coffee shop called Food Corner. Within their halls, you will find a humble stall currently without a name but owned by local, Francis Then that serves “Mushroom Chicken Noodles”. 

Mushroom Chicken Noodles
Don't let his look scare you, he's a really nice guy. He was just unprepared for this pic

He serves two variations to its noodles, with or without chili oil and flakes. Let me save you the trouble of helping you pick the one with the chili because if you can handle a slight kick of heat, you will thank me for the recommendation as this variation is the one we’ll be talking about. 


You will notice at first glance the similarity between the noodles served here and a normal bowl of Kolo Mee; the noodles and sprinkling of greens and minced meat. 

If Mr Then were to speak to you about his noodles, he'd tell you, "I'm not saying my noodles are the best, or others aren't as good.. Just give mine a try and you decide".

Maestro
At first bite, you’ll realize that what most overlook as the most essential part of the Kolo Mee, is the noodles. Too often one will have a bowl of noodles that is either too chewy from being undercooked, or too soft and mushy from being overcooked. What you taste from this bowl, are noodles boiled to just the right amount of time for the right amount of bite or texture, and quickly shocked by blanching in cold water to achieve springiness. 


The mince, is flavoured with mushroom which brings an earthy and meaty body to the protein and is accompanied with the chili oil which as I’m told is homemade and cooked for hours to help the mince stick to the noodles and coat it with a roasted spicy profile. A dash of coriander that’s sprinkled over the noodles helps elevate the rich flavor of mushroom to add a fresh lemony dimension and also adds pretty colours if that’s what you’re into. Did I mention again that the mince is made of chicken? Because it’s made of chicken. Don’t judge me. 

What you get from a bowl like this, is layer upon layer of elements disguised as just a simple bowl of Kolo Mee. The rush of flavours one experiences is what you get from scrupulous dedication to detail from someone whom you can tell from his food, loves what they make and would love for you to love it too. That being said though, what is authentic and does it even really matter? Have another bite of from Francis Then's Chicken Mushroom Noodles and answer me again.

He is open everyday 7:00am - 2:00pm and 6:00pm - 9:00pm


SMASHINGLY SMASHED, SPOINKS’ SMASHING PORK BURGER

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The intricacy of making a tasty pork patty is underrated especially and ironically in a community that prides itself in its love of pork.

team

I for one was skeptical of good pork patties sold outside the realm of my kitchen as it is no easy task of bringing the easily dried and subtle tasting meat to even an acceptable level, let alone in a setting that requires hundreds of orders a day. What Spoinks has managed to do, is bring simple, overlooked food science to achieve a truly smashing foodie experience.

spoinks2

Spoinks – a burger stand of proud owners, Reuben and William, named after a combination of a pink Pokemon and “Oinks”, the sound a pig makes, currently only serves one kind of burger. Their solo signature burger, the “Smashing Pork Burger” served in hipster like fashion on a wooden chopping board, is as the name suggests is “smashed” smashingly.
According to co-owner Reuben, “What I want to do, is to create a niche market of pork while being professional at it”.
At first glance, what looks like a thick patty in the sandwich is actually two. This is no gimmick as it serves the purpose of not only to increase the amount of meat, but also to cut short cooking time and increase the surface area of a char that is achieved by searing their pork balls into patties by “smashing” them.


Smash baby smash
Smash baby smash
Caramelized end product
Caramelized end product

Each detail of this burger has their handiwork from the way their soft and sweet brioche bun that they have specially contracted a supplier for is able to hold the full weight of the burger, to their home-made barbeque sauce and fresh condiments of slaw and buttery caramelized onions. Something that is also nice to try when available is the presence of their juicy yet crispy home-made cured bacon. After sitting down for a chat with the friendly Reuben, he could not speak enough about the pride of consistently producing fresh ingredients for all their condiments barring the cheese.


Home-made goodness
Home-made goodness
Crisp on the outside, sweet and juicy on the inside
Crisp on the outside, sweet and juicy on the inside

Spoinks does a lot right, but condiments like the slaw are of low abundance, which is a shame because one needs the crunchy, fresh texture of vege to balance the heavy and juicy burger. What is also left to be desired on a personal preference is the presence of cheese and mayo which although provides texture, to me does not enhance the flavor of the burger. The cheese is neither sharp enough nor melted onto the patty and the mayo’s soft creamy texture does not add to the already juicy sandwich. It is important to note that this is a minor gripe and can all be rectified by ordering them without.
Overall, the gripes only exist because Spoinks have put themselves up on a level that demands excellence, and because the burger itself is just that good. There are personal things one would prefer from this author, yes but it shouldn’t deter one from giving this place a try in front of the Public Bank in Stutong where they open from Tuesdays to Saturdays at 6:30 pm till 11:00 pm. Also check out their Facebook page where they regularly post updates on their whereabouts and availability.